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tasmania | australia | hobart | launceston | port arthur | gordon river | strahan | zeehan | cradle mountain | ford devonport | bruny island | scotsdale | St Helens |

Tasmania - an ancient land

Tasmania is an ancient land, full of interesting, unique animals, plants and scenery. Our mission, on this journey, is to study one of the island's major, but more unknown industries .

Ever heard of a quoll, Sarah Island or a thylacine ? What and where are these… I can tell you they all exist (more or less) in Tassie. The Thylacine – well there are those who seriously believe the legendary Tasmanian tiger still roams the west coast rain forests. Reports, however say the last tiger died in captivity in 1936 at the Hobart zoo. For me the jury is still out, as you could wander for months through the thick, impenetrable west coast rain forests, be surrounded by Tassie tigers and never see them!

After 3200 kms and 12 days in December we don’t spot any Tassie Tigers but we are fortunate to become close and personal with Tasmania’s highly regulated poppy industry, grown to produce natural morphine. The poppy fields near Devonport, in the north of the island, where we fly into, are spectacular clothed in  great swathes of gentle lilac flowers.  Visiting at this time of year usually means good weather and, of course the unforgettable spectacle of the poppy fields. All commercial poppy crops are grown under strict state controlled regulation with the harvest committed before planting to one of 2 large pharmaceutical companies.

After collecting our rental the drive south to Launceston is about 11/2 hours away stopping at a couple of pretty English style villages on the way. The main roads are generally very good and mostly dual carriageways, although into more remote areas roading can be a challenge.

Soon we coming over The King’s Bridge, at the entrance to the famous Cataract Gorge and entering the Launceston outskirts. Straight away we are surrounded by 100 year old villas and heritage commercial buildings. We have a half day to spare in Tasmania’s second city and take the opportunity to visit the historic towns of Evandale and Longford, just a fews Kms south of the city.. Lots for the keen architectural photographer in these well preserved towns.

We are driving quite early this morning in the easterly direction of Scotsdale a town famous for its horticultural production – the dark red volcanic loam producing beautifully long red carrots, hard long keeping onions and kidney shaped Dutch potatoes. Further eastwards we pass through the ‘tin’ towns Derby and Weldborough where tin mining was very rewarding in the late C19.

Arriving on the east coast at St Helens where we stop for much needed reviving coffee, and taking a brief detour to Binalong Bay to view the fiery red algae which grows over the rocks at Bicheno. Unique and interesting. At this time of day we are thinking about where to spend the night. Nothing appeals at St Helens but a small distance down the coast we come across The White Sands Resort at Ironhouse Point; looks promising and proves to be an excellent choice. The simple on site restaurant  which we expect to be average actually turns out to be quite superior. A walk on the nearby beach to view the giant kelp is quite spectacular. With a little over half the day left we take the Esk Highway inland to the west visiting Fingal and Avoca. A worthwhile side trip with lots of photography opportunities. A longish drive in the morning down to Hobart.

Our first goal of the day is Freycinet National Park, about 40kms south. We purchase a $60 Park Pass which gives park access today and to other National Parks later in our journey. We don’t have too much to spend as we still have 170kms to drive before our stop for the night – Hobart. We opt for the ½ hour return walk to Wine Glass bay lookout. Famous Wine Glass Bay is spectacular – sparkling white sand in a perfect horseshoe. Further on the road to Hobart takes us past Spikey Bridge, built by convicts in the mid 1800s using local field stones and no mortar.

We cross the Tasman Bridge over the Derwent into Hobart at the day’s end, finding our heritage accommodation, The Lodge on Elizabeth, quite easily. Very generous Victorian style rooms which we quickly settle into. A friends recommendation takes us up the road to Fish 359 for excellent fresh fish and salad.

Lots of heritage in Hobart so a feast for the camera which continues with a walk through Saturday’s Salamanca Markets where local wares are for sale alongside super fresh artisan produce. A few minor purchases which we can easily carry as we are on foot. As we walk down towards the harbour and Constitution Dock Hobart’s heritage is all around.

On arrival at the Dock edge we are treated to a rare sight. There, being prepared for sea, stands the ‘Ady Gil’, formerly Pete Bethune’s ‘Earthrace’. She is a strange sight, with her central hull and outriggers attached by graceful arching arms. Her mission is to inhibit whale catchers in the southern ocean But sadly, on this voyage she is rammed and sunk.

Day 2 in Hobart is our Port Arthur day and you do need a day to not be rushed around the old early C19 prison buildings, some in ruins but others in good original restored condition. We have read a lot about Port Arthur, however nothing really prepares you for the pure austerity of the place and, of course we remember the more recent 1996 Port Arthur massacre and are better able to understand the enormity of what happened on that day. The Penitentiary at Mason Cove in the mid 1800's must have struck terror into the hearts of new arrivals from the old country. Bleak and freezing cold it is no surprise that quite a few inmates attempted escape by sea or through the impenetrable surrounding forest. Little wonder very few succeeded. The 'Isle of the Dead', a tiny pimple in the harbour, where around 1600 convicts are reputed to be buried, mostly in unmarked graves is a dreadful place.

Driving back into Hobart we take a short side trip up to the Mt Wellington summit. Covered in snow during winter, today.

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